Using our cutters for best results
Our cutters have a super sharp 0.4mm blade that makes cutting simple shapes and outlines really easy. They can be used for polymer clay, precious metal clay and ceramics. They are not classed as food safe. More advanced cutters with heavy embossing details can be a little trickier to master but I will go through all of the techniques further down this page.
Here are the short versions:
MAIN CUTTERS & STUD CUTTERS
1) Condition your clay, then set your pasta machine to number 2 (approximately 2.5-3mm thick) and run it through a couple more times. Gently roll out this slab onto a smooth surface such as a ceramic tile so it is well adhered.
2) Dip the cutting side of the cutter into a damp soapy sponge a couple of times (you can also dust the clay or cutter with cornflour for the same effect).
3) Press the cutter down firmly then pull straight up. You can also use the "double cut" method where you press the cutter in a little way, pull it off, then cut again over the top.
4) Bake your pieces and decorate as you wish. Cut onto the same tile you bake with to avoid distorting tricky shapes.
MICRO CUTTERS
Set your pasta machine to number 3 or 4 (approximately 1.2 - 1.4mm thick), Repeat steps 2-4
PRECIOUS METAL CLAY (PMC) CUTTERS
1) Roll out your PMC to a thickness of 1mm-1.2mm ~ you may need to use guides for an even thickness.
2) Gently press the cutter into the clay and pull straight up. You are advised to use a release agent or allow the rolled out clay to firm up a little before using your cutter. You can also use clingfilm over the top of your clay when you cut to give a more 3D/puffy effect to your pieces.
3) Remove any excess clay from around the cut out shape and allow the pieces to dry out. Sand to remove any rough edges once dry.
4) Fire and polish your metal clay pieces as usual.
Main & Stud Cutters
Micro Cutters
Extra tips and tricks for polymer clay success!
1) Prepare yourself
Wash and thoroughly dry your hands. Avoid any fluffy clothing and preferably roll up your sleeves to avoid any lint transfer. Tie back your hair too.
EXPERT TIP: Adopt a large white shirt that is big enough to cover your clothes just for when you are working with clay to act as a coverall/apron. This will reduce the amount of fuzzies especially if you work with light coloured clay.
2) Prepare your work surface
Make sure you have a smooth flat surface to work on such as a ceramic tile or glass worktop saver. This must be clean and dust free. I like to use 99% Isopropyl alcohol for this as it evaporates quickly and leaves no wet residue behind. It helps to give your immediate tools (rolling pin, tissue blade and intended cutters) a wipe too before you begin.
3) Condition your clay
If you condition your clay properly it will be far easier to use than if you only do it haphazardly. I see it this as if it were preparing dough for making bread - if you didn't knead it enough you couldn't expect it to turn out how you wanted. If you are unsure how to do this please see our "Beginners Guide to Clay" section or watch a few you tube videos to help you.
4) Prepare your clay
Roll out your conditioned clay to the desired thickness. This will be detailed in the cutter description so make sure it is the correct thickness for the type of cutter you intend to use otherwise the embossed elements might not work! If you are using a pasta roller this is usually setting 2 - approx 2.5mm thick. If you are using a rolling pin you are advised to purchase some depth guides so you can roll it out to the correct thickness by hand. Make sure the clay has been rolled onto the tile and it is well adhered before you use your cutter otherwise the clay will stick to your cutter and not come out cleanly.
EXPERT TIP: avoid touching the surface of the clay with your fingertips as this will leave fingerprints! you can place a piece of clean printer paper on top of the clay and rub it or roll it out gently to remove them if this happens.
5) Prepare your cutters
There are 2 ways (that I know of) to avoid your clay sticking to the cutter, especially the embossed ones. One is to dust cornflower on the surface of your clay or dip your cutter into cornflower before you cut. This does work but I find you then have a lot more clean up to do in the finishing process which is time consuming. My preferred method is as follows:
- Get a ramekin or small dish and put a clean small sponge in it.
- Add a drop of liquid hand soap to the sponge.
- Add some water to the sponge and foam it up.
- Wring out the excess with one squeeze and leave the sponge in the dish.
- Splodge your cutter blade side down a couple of times into the damp sponge.
- Cut your clay as normal.
I find this method much more effective than cornflower as long as your cutter isn't wet and soapy, just a bit damp. You can add more soap and water as it starts to dry out and it also cleans your cutters for you as you go along so its a win-win!
EXPERT TIP: When you have removed the cut clay piece from your work surface it helps to roll your finger very gently over the edges to remove any ragged clay. This saves hours of sanding time later on!
More advanced cutter tecniques
If you are struggling with a particular cutter there are a few things you can do to achieve greater success. Lets just check a few things first:
Is your clay conditioned properly? Under conditioned clay is crumbly and breaks when you fold it. You may need to add some clay conditioner in this instance. Some clays can be oily and sticky especially in warm weather so pop it in the fridge for a bit or roll it out and lay it on some paper for while and leech some oil out of it if this is the case. Cutters work their best when the clay is fully conditioned and you also get that satisfying "skeleton pull" removing the excess clay.
Is your cutter clean? Leftover clay stuck in your cutter can effect its cutting capabilities so clean it with a baby wipe or Isopropyl Alcohol before use.
Are you pressing too hard? I see many people pressing with all their might on top of their cutters and not only can this cause damage to the cutter it is a little counter productive as it can cause the clay to vacuum and stick to the cutter as it is lifted off. A firm push down until you feel the blade hit the work surface is all that is required.
Is your clay the correct thickness for your cutter? Most pasta machines have similar settings. However every cutter company will have designed their cutters to work with a certain range of thicknesses. All of our main cutters are for use with clay 2.5-3mm thick to achieve best results except the micro cutters which are designed to be used with thinner clay (1.2mm - 1.4mm).
Have you used a lubricant? Its easy to forget to use the sponge method or dust your clay with cornflower before use but it really does help so this is a good habit to get into.
3 Easy methods for tricky cutters
1) The Wiggle
This method is especially useful with tiny cutters. Vibrate the cutter slightly with your fingers as you cut down gently into the clay in a slow smooth motion. If you do it too quickly or too hard it will create suction and your clay will get stuck in your cutter.
2) The Double (or tripple) Cut
This one is fairly self explanatory. Cut in a little way, lift it off and then cut again. Repeat as required
3) Clingfilm
Another method is to place a clean piece of cling film over your clay and then cut as normal. When you lift the clingfilm away the cutter will come with it. I personally haven't found this method to be very successful (although many clay artists use it) as sometimes it just cuts the cling film as well so just bear that in mind if you try it.
EXPERT TIP: Cutting clay successfully takes practice and patience so don't worry if it doesn't go to plan the first few times! Its something you have to learn to "feel" and it will still often not go according to plan even if you are experienced.
Be sure to check out our Instagram where I have many reels showing you how I use my cutter collections.
How to care for your cutters
Use
These cutters have a very thin cutting blade to ensure sharp cuts but they are also susceptible to breakage if you do not use them correctly.
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Do not push down too hard as excessive pressure can cause them to snap. A medium pressure with the heel of your hand unit you feel the cutter hit the work surface is all that is required. Any harder and your risk damaging your cutter.
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Do not flex or squeeze your cutters where possible.
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Do not apply excess pressure to the sides or walls of the cutter
Cleaning
Our cutters are made from PLA - polylactic acid - a plant based biodegradable material similar to plastic and PETG, a recyclable tougher, more durable type of plastic.
They can be cleaned with the following:
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Isopropyl Alcohol
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Baby Wipes
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Tepid soapy water - not warm or hot as this could cause them to melt.
DO NOT:
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Expose to harsh chemicals such as acetone or bleach
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Use warm or hot water
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Put in the dishwasher
Storage
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Keep away from sunlight
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Store in a cool dry place
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Do not pile things on top of them